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Expedition in Nepal

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  • Procedure

Nepal is main and favorite country for mountaineering in the world. Nepal has 8 highest mountains out of 14 highest mountains in the world. The highest mountain Mt. Everest 8848m and other challenging higher peaks lies in Nepal offering more than 400 expeditions trudging up the Himalaya each year. Mountaineering history in Nepal began only from 1949 when the team consisting of Bill Tilman, Peter Lloyd and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa scaled Mt. Paldor 5,928m. Tenzing Norgay went on to become one of the two men, the other being New Zealander Edmund Hillary, to blaze the first ever successful trail to the top of Mt. Everest in 1953.

Since then as much as possible the facilities and amendments being made in favor of the climbers in the Nepalese Himalaya. The Nepal government is making easier and supporting rules and regulations and opening new peaks which have better physibility for the mountaineering as per the time and climbers requirements. So the number of climbers has been increasing each year. Now it is not only a climbing but there is always some competition to make new records. Perhaps more than fifty percent expeditions are done in the Everest area as some of the highest peaks including Mt. Everest lie in this region.

Holiday Mountain Treks & Expedition has been organizing successfully many expeditions to most of the world’s highest peaks including Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam etc. We also assist some independent climbers all the way to the summit. Our staffs are organized and professional so we are we are success. We will provide you with the entire necessary infrastructure for your summit attempt. We rather prefer to offer our service to experienced and competent mountaineers but not a newer. Previous high altitude and technical climbing experience is required. Our Nepalese mountain guides and climbing sherpas are some of the most experienced in the world and will assist you as much as possible in your summit attempt. Favorable season fro climbing in Nepal are Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. The best season among them is the Autumn season and second best season is spring season, when the harsh weather of winter leaves the mountain after dumping fresh snow and before the monsoon starts.

Seasons, procedures and Permits:

The mountaineering season in Nepal is divided into four seasons, Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. The most popular among them is the spring season, when the harsh weather of winter leaves the mountain after dumping fresh snow and before the monsoon starts. The second best season would be the Autumn season.

Nepal Expedition Procedure

 A. The following documents have to be sent to the Ministry of tourism, Mountaineering Division, Katmandu, Nepal

* Completed Application

* Short biography of all members of the expedition (with photograph)

* Map and/ or photograph of the mountain including climbing route.

* Approach route map.

Since climbing permission is granted on 'first come first serve' basis, it is therefore necessary to enlist the expedition's name for the particular mountain for the particular season of the year. The listing is made when the completed application form with all documents are received by the Ministry of Tourism. Incase all documents mentioned above cannot be submitted at a time, booking is possible with only the completed application by the expedition leader. No fee is required to enlist the expedition's name.

B. Your expedition must be handled by the Government registered trekking company in Nepal. Which can do all the necessary work for the climbing permission as your local expedition operator or local contactor as per mountaineering Expedition Regulations.

C. Climbing Permit fee (royalty): The leader of the expedition team or its agent is required to compulsorily pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) before the permit is granted 

D. Preparation In Nepal for Expedition:

Import of foods and equipment:- Invoices and airway bill or bill of lading (four copies each) have to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import license and customs clearance for the import of expedition foods and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in the invoice.

Communication Equipment:- As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver (Wireless) sets and other communication equipment are controlled articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles in the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to bring into Nepal for use during climbing period. 

Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office by receiving permission letter from the Ministry of communication.

For the clearance of the equipment completed application form and invoice with catalogue or specifications (four copies each) should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism which are latter to be sent to other concerned government offices.

E. Filming or Documentary: Permission is required for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication must be contacted any time for queries about filming in Nepal. Please let us know we will take care of every thing here in Nepal.

F. The Royalty and size of the Expedition team "Rules effective from 1996 Spring": More than one team maybe permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by each separate route in one season. A royalty of US $ 50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of 5 members. The team may include 5 more members provided if it pays extra US $ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted three months visas. Additional US $ 20,000 will have to be paid the team willing to scale Sagarmatha by normal South East Ridge route.

In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 5 members for the minimum royalty, and 5 more members for the additional royalty.

The team already permitted to scale Sagarmath will have to pay US $ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US $ 20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal South East Ridge route.

For peak other than Sagarmatha, the team will have to pay additional 25% of the royalty in US $ to change the ascent route.

Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.

"Effective from 1992" the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price of the deposit for the management of Garbage's by each mountaineering team who tries to claim any peak in Khumbu region are as follows;

Royalty: Sagarmatha-South-West Ridge

1 member, Total US$ 25,000.00

2 members, Total US$ 40,000.00

3 members, Total US$ 48,000.00

4 members, Total US$ 56,000.00

5 members, Total US$ 60,000.00

6 members, Total US$ 66,000.00

7 members, Total US$ 70,000.00

Additional member each US$ 10,000.00 (Up to 5 Person)

Other 3 routs-West ridge, West Face and South Pillar has fixed the royalty

which is USD 50000 for the group of 1-7 and additional member each USD 10000

up to 5 person.

Royalty Other than Mt. Everest

Peaks above 8000m US $ 10,000 (1-7members) and $ 1500 for each additional member exceeding 7 members

Peaks of 7501-8000m US S 4000 (1-7 members) and US S 500 for each additional members exceeding 7members

Peaks of 7001-7500m US S 3000 (1-7 members) and US S 400 for each additional members exceeding 7 members

Peaks of 6501-7000m US S 2000 (1-7 members) and US S 300 for each additional members exceeding 7 members

Peaks below 6501m US S 1500 (1-7 members) and US S 200 for each additional members exceeding 7 members

Refundable Garbage Deposit

Mt. Everest US S 4000 or equivalent ( local currency)

Other peaks above 8000 meter US $ 3000 or equivalent (local currency)

All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2000 or equivalent (local currency)

Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition

Mt. Ama Dablam 6812m. is located almost due south of Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region and is considered a most technical-difficult climbing. Mt. Ama Dablam stands among many high peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty: It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. The normal climbing route is from its south-west ridge.

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Mt. Everest Expedition

Mt. Everest 8848m is the highest peak in the world. Sir Edmond Hillary and Late Tenzing Norge Sherpa first climbed this peak in May 29, 1953. Since then it is getting more and more popularity among the international climbers. These days it is being more easier for climbing and permit procedures. Nepalese government is trying to facilitate the international climbing teams as much as possible.

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Mt. Lhotse Expedition in Nepal

Mt. Lhotse a part of Everest massif and group of three peaks make up the Lhotse massif itself: Lhotse East or Middle, Lhotse & Lhotse Shar. The first attempt was made by an international team in the year 1955 but successful ascent was in 1956 by F. Luchsinger & E.Reiss of Swiss from the West Face. Normal route for the summit is via Everest's South Col.

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Makalu mountain Expedition in Nepal

Mt. Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world which is an isolated peak, located just 22 km east of Mount Everest & Situated between Everest and Kanchenjunga, on the Nepali-Tibetan border. The pyramid shape with its south east and north western ridges being most prominent attempting and to climb Makalu is both a challenging and serious undertaking and its remoteness and difficulties make it a big step among 8,000m.

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Manaslu Expedition

Mt. Manaslu is the highest peak of the Gorkha massif the eighth highest mountain in the world, which was first attempt on the peak from the Buri Gandaki valley in 1953 by a Japanese team. It is located about forty miles east of Annapurna. It’s long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and it culminates in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape, and is a dominant feature.

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Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition

Mt.Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world which is an enormous Himalayan massif, located in north central Nepal. The first successful ascent was made by an eight member of a Swiss expedition in 1960. Dhaulagiri’s crest stretches for thirty miles, lending structure to an otherwise tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls.

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Amphu Gyabjen

Mt. Amphu Gyabjen is in fact a long range starting in the Imja Khola valley near Chukung and connected on the other end to Mt. Ama Dablam. There all several summits, and although not extremely high, all summits are technical difficult and interesting.

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