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Island Peak Climbing

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  • Trip Info
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  • Cost Info
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Mt. Island Peak/Imja-tse 6160m is the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal. The peak actually is logically an outlier on the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and enclosed by the giant Lhotse and Imja Glaciers. This is an easily accessible from Chhukung but please informed that the grassy slopes above here are prone to avalanche after heavy snowfall. Fist base camp is often set at Pareshaya Gab 5075m and high camp at about 5700m. From here the summit ridge is quite straightforward, though there are various ice gendarmes and crevasses which are passed on the south side. Finally with full preparation attempt the summit. The views from summit are awe-inspiring of Lhotse towering overhead and other high peaks around.

Introduction and trip briefing
On our all tours, trek, expeditions and other adventures, we give a short brief about the trip in Kathmandu on the same day of your arrival and introduce your trip leader and team members. At the mean time, we provide an opportunity for individuals to ask questions if any about the trip.

A successful trek/climb requirement
As other trek and climb Mt. Everest base Camp trek and Island peak climb, also requires previous experience of trekking and ice/rock climb, sound health & fitness, previous experience for using Ice axe and crampons, ascending/descending. Of course there will be some Ice climbing course at the base camp make you skillful of using ropes, ice pick, harness, crampons and other essential gears. Island Peak climb usually require maximum 10hrs of walking and average 4-8 hrs in a day; You should be prepared 7-10 Km of walking or jugging exercise everyday at least 2 months before your trip starts. With lot of willpower, strong determination, reasonable fitness in health and hiking experience make surer of your successful trip. However medical and evacuation expenses are your responsibility so we suggest you to consult your doctor for medical requirements. To ensure for a safety and successful trek; we will provide one trek leader, one assistance leader on every group trek so that if in case one get sick, it would not be canceled the trek and run as plan as in itinerary.

A day on the trek
Day starts with warm greeting and bed tea. Then you will be offered a basin of hot water to wash and take breakfast then you are off to trek for more then 3 hours through the forests, hills, mountain and local villages. You will stop at pleasant surroundings for hot lunch for an hour. You will then walk 3 or more hours depends on the places and facilities for camping places, stop for the night camp, you will be then offered tea / coffee with some light snacks then explore the area or relax until dinner is served at the warm dining hall. Most of the evening you will be encouraged to sing and dance in a traditional way. Sometime you will spend time playing cards, reading books and learning Nepali.
Finally, go to bed served with hot water rubber bag to keep you extra warm in the cold temperature.

Trek/climbing guide and staffs
Believing that every successful trips have been possible because of the professional and organized team work, Holiday Mountain Treks employs experienced and trained Nepalese trek/climbing guide and excellent team work
Our staffs are organized and professional. Trekking/climbing uide will be fully trained of the following course who will assist you as much as possible in your summit attempt.
Trekking guide training from Nepal government's ministry of tourism & civil aviation department of hotel management & tourism training centre of Nepal.
Intensive wilderness first aid from Kathmandu Environmental Educational Project
Eco trekking workshop & adventure meet from Trekking Agenci’s Association of Nepal
English language, conservation & biodiversity from Kathmandu Environmental Educational Project.
Rock / ice climbing & mountaineering training (basic-advance) from Nepal Mountaineering Association of Nepal and have mountaineering experience.

Good care of porters: Believing that the porters are important and impossible to complete the trip. We do not allow porters to carry exceeding 20 kgs in tea-house and 30kgs weight in camping trek It is because of human being respect, their rights and against any exploitation on it's operation. We provide good health insurance, good equipments, working training and of course good pay with lots of encouragements. We are working with porters progress of Nepal and other organizations concerning about the porters.

Things to know: Our first concern is your safety while traveling with Holiday Mountain Treks. Please be informed that your trek leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to safety concerns. Our every effort will be made for a safely completion of the planned itinerary, however as this is adventure travel into the remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it! Other factor like weather conditions, the health of member can be the reason to changes the itinerary. In such a case, please be prepared to be flexible. Your trk/climb guide will accompany you on all scheduled activities and you will have free time to pursue your own interests too. Your trek guide will assist you with information about your options but please be informed that any additional activities you undertake are not part of our itinerary.

Responsible tourism concept
Holiday Mountain Treks is taking concern of economy, social, environment and culture while running its trips. Our staffs are trained on this and try for minimum impact on the natural environment and native peoples. We try to support local economy by using their products, making aware and our clients will have to respect the local culture and traditions. We always try to make the areas more cleaner and friendly environments after we travel. This is possible by your understanding and our trained crews.

Meals during Island peak climbing
Hygienic and freshly cook meals on full board basis will be provided both on trekking and climbing sections. We provide high level of balance diet, hygiene and safety meals three times in a day. Normally you will have Nepali, Tibetan/Sherpa, Indian, Continental and Italian dishes.

Washing and Toilet: Most of lodges offer hot shower now. Some times a hot shower means a bucket of hot water and ask your trek guide about the availability. For ecological reasons please try and limit your use of hot water if the water is not solar-heated. Please note that higher place and cold time there is very little chance to have enough and hot water. Every lodge will have some kind of hand washing facility but ask your trek guide about the place where you can wash and clean your teeth. In any event it is good idea to carry a bar of soap with you. If the water frozen then ask your guide to get warm bowl of water which does not cost money.

Toilets are usually Asian squat style and vary in how clean they are. Normally toilets are out side the lodge but now some lodge are have inside the room or lodge. They tent to be cleaner in the lower and Annapurna region than the Everest or other remote and high region because of water shortage and temperature. The rubbish bin in the toilet is kept for your used toilet paper.

Drinking water: Most of the stomach problems are faced from drinking water in the mountain so you should really care of it. Bottle of mineral water is normally available but environmentally unfriendly options so we recommend filtered and boiled water that should be treated with iodine / purifying tablet before you drink it. The lodge people charge minimum for boiled water as fuel is used to boil the water and wait about half an hour before adding any fruit powder etc.

Travel Insurance
We suggest and t is a condition of traveling with us that you must be fully insured, including air rescue services and all medical expenses. You decide and choose what amount and types of is insurance is suitable for your trip nature as some does buy cancellation and only for certain period of time.

Transportation: Deluxe private vehicle are provided while on city tour, airport transfers and round trip flight.

Day 01:Arrive in Kathmandu airport.

You'll be met at the airport by our representative and transfer to hotel.

Day 02:Katmandu-Lukla-Phakding: 35 min flight; 4 hours trek
Transfer to Airport and fly to Lukla 2,800m by small twin otter 35 mins. Start trekking passing some of the beautiful Sherpa villages aside the Dudhkosi River until Phakding 2,652m is reached.

Day 03:Phakding-Namche Bazaar 3440m. 5 hours trek

The trail follows the Dudhkoshi River passing the villages and crossing few Hilary's Suspension Bridge then the trail further climbs from here to Namche Bazaar.

Day 04:Rest Day

A day is spent here for hiking around to acclimatise. Namche Bazaar is the main centre in the Khumbu region and has shops, restaurants, a bakery, hotel with hot showers and electric power.

Day 05: Namche Bazaar- Dole 4,090m.6 hours trek

A short climbs to the top the village then walk through the forest of birch and junipers and beautiful views of Ama Dablam on the right. After Mungla the trail first descends to Phortse Thanga and ascends further to the village of Dole.

Day 06:Dole -Machhermo: 5 hours trek

The trail climbs all the way to Luza through scrub junipers long side of the valley high above the river and then crosses the sandy slopes until reaching the village of Machhermo where it is believed that a Yeti killed several yaks and attacked Sherpa women earlier.

Day 07:Machhermo- Gokyo lake 4,750m. 5 hours trek

The trail climbs up to the moraine following small stream which comes to a small lake then to the Fangka settlement. From here the trail climbs to the Ngozumpa glaciers then reach to the second lake and finally up to the isolated Gokyo lake through the jumble of rocks and boulder.

Day 08: ClimbGokyo RI 5357m.3 hours trek

Early morning climb to Gokyo Ri for the tremendous mountain views around Gokyo including Cho Oyo, Gyachung Kang, Mt Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cholatse and Tawachee etc.

Day 09: Gokyo - Thangna 4640m 5 hour trek

The trail along the lake crossing the Ngojumba glacier then Thangna a tiny village with few lodge facilities.

Day 10: Thangna - Dzongla 4,850m. 6 hours trek

Walk across the moraine then it is a steep ascent to the top of the snow covered Chola la 5,420m, which provides excellent panoramic views of the surrounding mountains of Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Mt.Everest. After the pass, the trail descends steeply towards the Dzongkha passing through some pine forests.

Day 11: Dzongla- Lubuche 4,930m. 4 hours trek

The trail gradually climbs up to the top providing an imressive view of Cho Yu then the trails goes in the Sherpa settlement of Lubuches beside a small stream.

Day 12: Lubuche-Gorak Shep 5,160m 4 hours trek

A gentle climbs all the way and a short descent to the last village Gorak Shep with few tea-houses facilities. Climb to Kala Pattar 5,545m which offers the best views of Mt. Everest, Pumori and Ama Dablam.

Day 13:Everest Base Camp excursion and trek back to Lubuche 7 hours trek

Walk into the Everest Base Camp 5,357m through rocky and glacial trails where climbers gather for summiting Everest then trek back to Lobuje.

Day 14:Lubuche - Kongma La 5540m.- Chhukung 4740m. 7 hours trek

The trail ascends through Khumbu Glacier to Kongma La pass then descends to the Imja Khola valley and further Chhukung a small summer and last settlement before island peak where you make final preparation of the climb.

Day 15:Chhukung -Island Peak Base Camp 5230m.4 hours trek

A gentle walk through Chhukung valley until the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines and reach to the base Camp of Island peak.

Day 16:Island Peak Base Camp - High Camp 5610m. 3 hours climb

Actual climb starts from here. With full preparation climb to High Camp striking off left up the steep hillside and slope narrows entering a steep rock channel.

Day 17:High Camp - Summit 6189m. - Base Camp - Chhukung: 8-10 hours climb

Early in the morning climb starts through the several rocky steps before you emerge on the right side of the gully then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m. snow and ice slope 40-45° on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. After enjoying the summit views you will descend all the way to Chhukung.

Day 18:Chhukung - Tengboche 3870m. 6 hours trek

The trail gradually descends through scrub junipers, Mani stones, rhododendron forests and beautiful Sherpa villages to Pangboche then further down to the suspension bridge. From here it is a gentle climb up hill to Tengboche through rhododendron and alpine meadows.

Day 19:Tengboche - Namche Bazaar 5 hours trek

The trail descends to Phunki Tenga then Climb up gradually through a forest to Khumjung from where a long flat ridge come to reach Namche Bazaar.

Day 20:Namche Bazaar - Lukla: 7 hours trek

Trek back to Lukla along the same trail and celebrate a successful completion of the trek.

Day 21:Lukla- Kathmandu

Morning fly back to Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel. The rest of day is at leisure to rest, souvenir shopping or explore any sights you want to see and evening enjoy Farwell dinner hosted by the company.

Day 22: Departure

If you have time and are interested for other adventure like white water rating, wild life safari or any other activities can extend your holiday or transfer to airport and fly back to sweet home.

Trip cost: Start from USD 2100 and minimum 2 person group basis

Trip cost includes:

  • We try to make free of tension our clients from arranging the necessary things and include as much as possible while in Nepal and let them just to enjoy the holiday.
  • Airport transfers
  • 2/3 star category hotel with breakfast in Kathmandu
  • Domestic flight, Airport taxes
  • Guided city tour by private vehicles and entrance fees
  • Best available hotel/tent camp and all meals during the trek
  • Down jacket, 4 seasonal sleeping bag & group mountaineering gears.
  • First Aid and Eco trained English speaking trek leader/guide and sherpa, porters and other necessary staffs
  • All necessary paper works, permits and other logistic work
  • Travel & Rescue arrangements support
  • Portable Altitudes Chamber (PAC) for safety measures at an extra cost if required.
  • All government and local taxes.
  • Exclusive Medical Kit Bag
  • Staffs insurance and other facilities.
  • Welcome or farewell dinner

Trip cost excludes

  • Entry visa fees and International airfare
  • Lunch / dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Personal mountaineering gears and other equipments
  • Personal expenses e.g. phone calls, laundry, bar bills & extra porters
  • Travel/medical and rescue insurance
  • Excess baggage charges
  • Optional trips and sightseeing if extend
  • Tips for guides and other staffs.

Great team work and professionalism of Holiday Mountain Treks

Climbing Island peak and trekking in the area (Kala Patar-Base Camp-Gokyo) was fantastic. The well organized travel arrangements made it far better that any of us could expect. Great team work and professionalism of Holiday Mountain Treks was the reason of our summit attempt. I will be looking forward to climb again in Nepal soon and there is no reason to go further than here to be climbing with friends at this agency.

Alexander Raofinia

Leader of the climbing team from Iran, Sweden and France

Island peak

We were blessed to have finally organized our trek with Holiday Mountain Treks.

When one organizes a trek to Nepal (Particularly over the internet) one does not know what to expect. We were blessed to have finally organized our trek with Holiday Mountain Treks. They were professional and friendly and made us feel comfortable from the beginning. Abir finalized every detail and provided answers to all our questions.

As for the trek itself, the guide and porters made the journey all the more enjoyable. They took care of the small matters however they allowed us the freedom to decide on major concerns. The climb to Island Peak, this was conducted with experience and safety. At no time we did we feel in danger.

Overall, “Holiday Mountain Treks Ran an excellent trekking establishment and I know they were the best we found”

Spiros Soulis, the tour leader

23 Newmarket St.

Northcote 3070, Melborne, Australia

Everest Trek/ Island Peak climb

Trip Fact

Min alt: 2640m.

Max alt: 6190m.

Walking hrs: 4-10 hrs.

Trek Style: Lodge/tent

Grade: Medium-Hard and climb

Best time for Island peak climbing: The best times (March –May) and autumn (Sep - Nov). Trekking and climbing can be arranged in winter and monsoon but we do not follow regular itinerary as the high passes (Cho-la and Kngma La) are not possible to cross.

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